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  • Susan Welsh

Everything's Coming Up Rosés




Last week, Stephanie and I rang in another New Year with a bottle of champagne and a1970 episode of Lawrence Welk’s New Year’s show. The show included Arthur Duncan tap dancing to “Everything’s Coming Up Roses,” the Broadway tune from "Gypsy" that would become Ethel Merman’s signature song. Many iterations have been recorded, but one of the more interesting ones may be Merman’s 1979 disco version recorded when she was 71, which played regularly at Studio 54. But readers, I diverge. Let’s get back to bubbles.

Of all the rosés in all the countries in all the world, I’ll choose Billecart-Salmon every time. While there are others, note-worthy and iconic, none match the exquisiteness of flavor at this price. For less than a C-note, indulgence is yours—a parade of impressive bubbles putting on a show in your glass, light hint of strawberry on the nose, and fresh taste of berry that complement just about anything you choose to pair it with—my favorite is a thick slab of Délice de Bourgogne, an absolutely velvety experience of triple cream, made with extra butterfat (now appearing on my "holiday belly”) and a silkiness that is pure heaven. These two treats, alone, illustrate why the French have such a stellar reputation for their food and wine.


It’s not so much a resolution, but more of a New Year’s quest to taste more Brut Rosés in 2023. I am wholly open to suggestions as well as gifts from Champagne houses (California sparkling wine-producers also welcome). At the top of my short list are: Fleur de Miraval Rosé (do you see me, Brad Pitt?). And yes, the star quality behind interests me, but most of all I'm intrigued by all the accolades. I picked up a bottle at Central Wine Merchants, where they have an impressive, well-allocated selection of wine and spirits. My ultimate splurge choice would be a 2012 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rose Millesime for so many reasons. One, it’s 100% bio dynamically produced, and then--the tasting notes of respected American wine critic, Antonio Galloni, who describes it as a “champagne of tremendous gravitas” along with this bit of advice: “Readers who can find the 2012 should not hesitate, as it is truly magical.”


Chill the flutes and cue the music, "It’s Time for French Fries and Champagne."






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