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“When you shine, I sing“

Writer: Susan Welsh
Susan Welsh
10 minutes ago
2 min read

Medici Fountain in Jardin du Luxembourg
Medici Fountain in Jardin du Luxembourg

If I lived in Paris (if only) I would walk to the Luxembourg Gardens every day. I would sit beneath the shade of the Plane trees and listen to the musical burble of the Medici Fountain, contemplating the rich legacy of women who helped shape French history—20 of whom are memorialized in the Gardens encircling the Grand Bassin (central pond).


Occasionally, I’d take a taxi to the Sacre Coeur and absorb the stunning view of the city from atop Butte Montmarte, then wind my way down the Rue de L’Abreuvoir, a street that dates back to 1325 and leads to Place Dalida, where a bronze bust of the French pop music icon, Yolanda Cristina Gigliotti, known as Dalida, resides. I would pay homage to the artist who was born in Egypt to Italian immigrant parents, recorded songs in 10 languages, and essentially launched the disco craze in France with her dance anthem, “J’attendrai”.


Vintage sundial that reads:   “when you shine, I sing”
Vintage sundial that reads: “when you shine, I sing”
























When afternoon sunshine dappled the corners I would know it’s time for refreshment— a glass of champagne, more bread, and what’s become one of my favorites, avocat et crevettes (avocado and shrimp) at Le Moulin De La Galette. Once a windmill for grinding flour and crushing grain, the space became a dance hall in the late 19th century and was frequented by artists like Renoir, Van Gogh, and Picasso.

Renoir’s Le Bal du moulin de la gatlette, which captures everyday life at the dance hall in 1876 and hangs in the Musèe d’Orsay
Renoir’s Le Bal du moulin de la gatlette, which captures everyday life at the dance hall in 1876 and hangs in the Musèe d’Orsay




Metro signs designed by Hector Guimard in 1900 for the World’s Fair (Exposition Universelle)
Metro signs designed by Hector Guimard in 1900 for the World’s Fair (Exposition Universelle)

After a few more hours of walking the cobblestones, descending steps and spotting a few of the iconic Art Nouveau Metro signs I would do the very American thing and book a table at Le Bon George for 5:00. No self-respecting Parisian is eating supper that early, hence all your dining companions will be fellow Americans. Go there for the famed fries (triple fried in beef tallow) but also for the wine list which rivals the size of the Gutenberg Bible. With over 2,000 lables and a 50,000 bottle inventory, it is both impressive and overwhelming. But what might catch your eye, if you grew up with a father who owned a wine shop, is the restaurant window featuring a line-up of Domaine de la Romanèe Conti, the legendary vineyard considered to be the best in the world. The estate’s flagship being it’s namesake pinot noir, a Burgundy the Archbishop of Paris described in 1780 as “velvet and satin in bottles.”







 
 
 

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